Indonesia | Bukit Lawang

The Start of Something Special
I found myself on an island called Gili T, a short boat ride from Bali, catching up with a friend I had met a year ago in Broome, Western Australia. After reminiscing and sharing some fun memories, he had to return to Western Australia, where he worked as a chef in a roadhouse. Suddenly, I found myself without any plans and feeling a bit stuck. 

While chatting with people at the hostel, one person shared stories about his encounters with orangutans during a jungle trek. His vivid descriptions captivated me, and when he showed me photos, I was completely sold. I was already imagining myself there. All I needed was a name: Bukit Lawang. 

A Leap into the Unknown
After some quick research, I learned I had to fly into Medan Kuala Namu Airport (also known as Kualanamu International Airport a helpful tip for anyone booking flights). Without hesitation, I booked a one-way ticket from Denpasar Bali, to Medan. 

Upon arrival, I stood out like a sore thumb there were no other backpackers in sight. A taxi to Bukit Lawang seemed outrageously expensive by backpacker standards, so I found a more affordable van share with locals. It was cramped, incredibly hot, and the four hour drive felt endless. Hungry, tired, and sweating, I tried to doze off despite the constant noise of Indonesian traffic. 

As we left the main roads, the scenery shifted. On both sides of the dirt track, palm oil plantations stretched as far as the eye could see. Truck after truck passed us, overflowing with palm fruit. The realization hit hard this was once wild jungle, now replaced by plantations. The disruption caused by the demand for palm oil was painfully evident. 

Arrival at the Jungle’s Doorstep
After four hours, we arrived at a gravel pit where tuk-tuks and taxis waited. I showed them the name of my homestay, but no one seemed willing to take me. Confused, I eventually found a kind local who explained that there were no roads leading to my destination. Instead, he offered to take me on his motorbike. 

The bike was old and rusty, and I doubted we could manage with my large backpack on my back and a smaller one on my front. He slung the smaller bag over his chest, and off we went. The dirt track turned into a narrow footpath as we entered Bukit Lawang. When we reached a steep slope, he rode ahead while I walked up with my bag. 

At the homestay, I was greeted warmly and shown to my room a dorm with a bunk bed and two singles, though I had it all to myself. The balcony overlooked a river, and across it was a near-vertical jungle-covered rock face. The village was nestled in a valley, with dense vegetation stretching up both sides of the river. It was breathtaking. 

A Warm Welcome and a Fireside Jam
Eager to trek, I asked my host about jungle tours. He called his friend, a guide, and booked me for the next day. That evening, I explored the village, took a refreshing swim in a calmer section of the river, and joined my host and some locals for a jam session by a fire pit. As we played guitar and shared stories, two men retrieved a fishing net they’d set earlier. The small fish they caught were cooked over the fire and shared among us a simple but beautiful moment of community. 

Into the Wild
The next morning, I crossed a rickety rope bridge to meet my guide. Gaps between the slats revealed the river rushing below, but it only added to the adventure. The guide gave a brief safety talk: if an orangutan grabs you, stay calm, and the guide will distract it with food. This tactic had, unfortunately, taught the orangutans that grabbing tourists meant getting fed. 

We entered the jungle, and the beauty was overwhelming. The dry conditions made trekking manageable, though there were steep sections. Before long, we encountered wildlife. A Thomas’s langur, also known as a North Sumatran leaf monkey, posed calmly for photos a rare and special sight, with fewer than 2,000 left in the wild. 

Later, we spotted a black furred gibbon swinging gracefully from tree to tree. It paused to observe us, its curiosity evident, before vanishing into the jungle. Even the guide was excited, as gibbons are not commonly seen. 

Then, the moment I’d been hoping for: an orangutan, bright orange and carrying a baby, appeared in the trees above us. Watching her move was mesmerizing. Over the course of the trek, we encountered several more, including one that passed within arm’s reach. Their calm presence was humbling. 

Camp by the River
As the jungle thinned, the sound of rushing water grew louder. Our campsite appeared by the river, and the guides quickly prepared dinner. I was trekking with an older French couple, and though we didn’t share much language, we bonded over a cold beer they kindly offered. Sitting by the river with our feet in the cool water, surrounded by the jungle, was unforgettable. 

That night, the jungle came alive. A bioluminescent millipede pulsed with light, its glow reminiscent of an airport runway. The thin sleeping mat offered little comfort, but the magic of the jungle kept me awake in awe. 

An Orangutan Farewell
Morning arrived with the soothing sound of the river. Instead of a shower, a refreshing swim jolted me awake.

As we lingered at camp, a female orangutan and her baby descended to the water. She cupped her hand to drink, wandered around the camp, then climbed a tree and vanished. It was the highlight of the trip a moment etched in my memory forever. 

Floating Back to Reality
The journey back to the village was an adventure in itself. Instead of hiking back, we were treated to a unique mode of transport a handmade raft constructed from large rubber tubes tied together with ropes. The guides expertly crafted it to handle the twists and turns of the river. 

As we climbed onto the raft, the cool water splashed around us, offering relief from the jungle’s heat. With towering trees flanking the riverbanks and the symphony of birds and insects filling the air, I felt completely immersed. The river carried us effortlessly, in its rapids.

The lush greenery seemed to stretch endlessly upwards, making me feel like a tiny speck in a vast, untamed world. The laughter of our group echoed as we navigated the bends.

The guides, with their expert knowledge of the river, kept us safe while making the ride thrilling.

As the village came into view, I felt a bittersweet mix of emotions. The ride had been exhilarating and peaceful in equal measure, a perfect conclusion to the trek. Stepping out of the raft, I couldn’t help but feel an immense sense of gratitude for the jungle, for the wildlife, and for this unique experience that had left an indelible mark on my heart. 

A Final Night in Bukit Lawang
That evening, I explored more of the village, walking through a cave to reach a bustling restaurant. Locals welcomed us warmly, offering a buffet of fish, rice, and jackfruit. Mid-meal, schoolchildren began singing, and soon the adults were dancing. When asked to join, I couldn’t resist. 

Later, drawn by music, I found myself in an open bar. A local, hearing I played guitar, encouraged me to perform. His story of surviving a near-fatal accident inspired me to push past my reservations. I played “One Day” by Matisyahu, feeling deeply connected to the people and the place. 

Reflections on Bukit Lawang
Bukit Lawang taught me the value of community and the importance of protecting the wildlife we share our planet with. These are the moments that matter most everything else is just extra. 

You can watch my jungle experience on my YouTube channel